The deer left us alone after evening feeding time, so I got a good night’s sleep. Up at 6:15am, out of camp by 7, we climbed 2200 feet to Methow Pass, where we took our first morning snack break. Already cloudy, low level clouds began forming in the deep canyon peaks of the north Cascades National park. Cold at the pass, we bundled up and kept hiking at a general elevation of 6200 to 6500 feet. In the next hour the wind increased and we were enveloped in clouds to the point all views were obscured. At Granite Pass, around 10:20, I told Tabasco I wanted to stop to prepare my pack for rain. We agreed to eat an early lunch there, sensing rain was imminent.
After lunch we continued a moderate to steep climb over rugged terrain to high craggy ridgeline. Fortunately low clouds dissolved and awesome views returned in this stunningly wild and beautiful wilderness. We stopped just before Cutthroat Pass, around 12:30 and I picked and ate handfuls of blueberries, while Tabasco did some rock climbing and exploration. Resuming our hike, we began an all-afternoon general descent out of high peaks into forest and brushland. We crossed Highway 20’s Rainy Pass mid-afternoon, after crossing paths with 3 sets of day hikers.
In the next hour I got stung 5 times by yellow jackets, after being stung once yesterday for the first time since Mexico. After we crossed Hwy 20, we ran into J.C. (now called Whatever) who I hadn’t seen since the Saufleys. Continuing on, we ate dinner at Bridge Creek’s Hideaway Camp at 5:30pm. We needed to get past Six Mile Camp, our original destination, because a warning sign was posted, including photos of an aggressive bear that frequented the camp and isn’t afraid of people. We passed the camp at 7pm and hoofed it another 1.7 miles to Maple Creek at 7:25, where we found Sisyphus at the creek in near darkness, about to push on another 11 miles north, planning to hike until midnight. We chatted about 20 minutes and he reiterated that he loved my attitude at Tuolomne Meadows, the day we met when I tried to get back on trail too early. Apparently the picture he took of me trying to hitch to Modesto is on his website (see my links page). We got some good information from Sisyphus about hiking the real PCT for 45 miles of trail closed due to the flooding/washout in 2003. He did the real PCT instead of the re-route, was alone, able to locate the trail, and saw four bears. The re-route is apparently very difficult, with huge steep climbs and descents, so Tabasco and I will most likely hike the original PCT, even though we won’t see a soul, for sure, because the trail is officially closed and hasn’t been maintained. Should make for a real adventure.
We’re camping on top of a little bald, a few yards beyond Maple Creek tonight. I’m using the fly only from the tent as a tarp for the second night in a row. I was thankful the rain held off today and it was mostly cloudy this afternoon with a few sun breaks (called Seattle Sucker Holes in the N. Cascades because rain usually follows). Tomorrow we head into remote Stehekin to resupply. I’ve had no cell phone service at all, and there’s no internet there, only a satellite phone for the tiny town. My spirits were better today, though my heels are raw and it is painful to hike. Looking forward to our town stop tomorrow. Today’s weather: cloudy to mostly cloudy; low 42, high 63. Today’s mileage: 25.5. Cumulative mileage: 1394.2.
